If you live in Colorado Springs and have a yard that leans a little artistic or unusual, you still need to winterize your sprinklers the same basic way: shut off the water, drain every line, and blow out the system with compressed air before hard freezes set in. The creative part is how you protect and preserve the design of your yard while you do it. Many people use a local service for Colorado Springs sprinkler winterization, but even if you hire help, it helps a lot to understand what is happening to your irrigation and how it affects your plants, hardscape, and outdoor art.
I want to walk through that in a direct way, but also keep an eye on what you probably care about: how the yard looks, how it feels, and how much creative control you keep when everything is buried in snow for months.
Why winterization matters even more for creative yards
Colorado Springs has cold nights, fast temperature drops, and enough freeze-thaw cycles to wreck an irrigation system that still has water trapped in it. That part is straightforward. But when your yard is not a basic grid of turf and shrubs, the risks spread into other parts of your space.
You may have:
- Custom steel or wood edging around beds
- Raised planters used like sculptural pieces
- Outdoor art that sits near, or right on top of, sprinkler lines
- Patterned gravel, stepping stones, or mosaic paths
- Native or xeric plant groupings arranged like a living installation
Frozen irrigation lines under or next to these features can crack, heave the soil, and throw off the layout you worked so hard on. I have seen a simple valve leak shift a small path of flagstone just enough to ruin a careful pattern. It is not dramatic, but it is frustrating.
Winterization is not just about saving parts of a sprinkler system. It is about protecting the shapes, lines, and small details of your yard design from slow damage.
So yes, the basic answer is simple: winterize. But for creative yards, you also plan around structures, art, and plant compositions so they look the way you meant them to look when spring returns.
How sprinkler systems behave in Colorado Springs winters
Before talking about art, it helps to understand a few plain facts about how irrigation behaves in local winters. Nothing fancy, just the basics.
| Thing | What happens in winter | Why creative yards should care |
|---|---|---|
| Buried PVC lines | Water left in pipes expands when it freezes and can crack the pipe wall. | A break under a path, sculpture base, or raised bed can shift or stain the surface later. |
| Backflow preventer | Exposed metal or plastic parts freeze fast and can split. | Leaks near walls, murals, or wood elements can cause discoloration or rot. |
| Valves and manifolds | Trapped water can damage housings and electrical parts. | A failed valve in spring means digging, which disrupts design patterns and plant groupings. |
| Drip lines and emitters | Small openings can clog or crack with ice and debris. | Carefully placed drip for feature plants may not work the same next season. |
None of this is dramatic on its own. It is the slow shift in alignments that bothers people who care about how their yard looks. A slightly tilted pedestal. A line of gravel that no longer reads as clean. The little things.
Basic steps of sprinkler winterization, in plain language
You might already know some of this, but I will still go step by step. The order helps, especially when you have features you do not want to disturb.
1. Shut off the irrigation water supply
The first move is to close the main irrigation shutoff valve. Usually this is:
- Inside a basement or utility room, or
- In a valve box a few feet from the foundation
If your yard design hides boxes under gravel or ground cover, make sure you can still reach them. I have seen beautiful stone layouts built right on top of access points. It looks clean, but once winter comes, it becomes a puzzle.
When you design around irrigation, never hide all the access. You can disguise it, but you still need to reach valves and boxes without tearing up your layout each fall.
Shut off the water fully. Feel the valve turn all the way. Do not rush this. You are setting the stage for everything that comes next.
2. Open manual drain valves or use the system drains
Some systems in Colorado Springs have drain valves at low points. These are simple handles or caps that let water escape by gravity. Others are set up for blowout only. Some have both.
If you have drain valves:
- Open each one slowly.
- Let water run out until it stops.
- Leave them open while you do the blowout, then close them when you are done.
If your creative yard uses berms, terraces, or raised art platforms, low points can be tricky. Water does not always flow where people assume it will. That is a small reason many local owners now lean on a blowout, even if the system also has manual drains.
3. Connect a compressor and blow out the lines
This is the part that makes some people nervous, and that is fair. Too much air pressure can damage heads or fittings. Too little pressure does not clear the lines, which defeats the point.
The basic idea:
- Connect an air compressor to the system at a common point, usually near the backflow assembly.
- Work through zones one at a time.
- Push air until the heads in that zone are only spitting a fine mist or just air.
- Stop and move to the next zone.
Many pros suggest staying in a certain pressure range, but this is where I am going to be cautious. I think people sometimes focus on numbers and ignore signs like loud banging or odd vibrations. If something feels wrong, it usually is.
Blowout is not a test of strength. It is more like cleaning out a delicate tube. Gentle, steady air is better than a powerful blast that damages parts under a path or sculpture you care about.
If your yard features mosaics, gravel art, or delicate pavers, mark where zones run under those surfaces. During blowout, watch those areas, listen for odd sounds, and stop if you notice anything strange.
4. Deal with the backflow preventer
The backflow assembly is often the weak link in Colorado Springs winters. Many of these devices sit outside on a wall or just above ground level. That makes them easy to access, but also easy to freeze.
For winterizing, people usually:
- Shut the inlet and outlet valves
- Open the small test cocks to drain trapped water
- Wrap the assembly with insulation or a rated cover
If your property has a painted wall, textured exterior, or outdoor mural near the backflow, be careful with insulation wraps and tape. Some covers stain, and some tapes pull paint in spring. This sounds like a small detail, but for anyone who treats the wall as part of the overall design, it matters.
5. Turn off and adjust the controller
Once the plumbing is handled, you adjust the controller. Most people choose one of three settings:
- “Off” so no watering occurs
- “Rain” or “Standby” mode to keep settings but stop watering
- Full reprogram with a spring-ready schedule saved
If your yard is more like an outdoor gallery, you might have special watering rules for different zones. An area with native grasses, a small rock garden with alpine plants, an herb structure near a deck, maybe a lawn you use as open space. For that kind of mix, I like to keep a small written or digital map of zones with notes like:
- Zone 1: artistic grasses near metal sculpture
- Zone 2: drip for tiered planter wall
- Zone 3: lawn used as event or sitting area
This is not required. It just saves you from wondering in spring why Zone 4 is flooding a gravel pattern you meant to keep drier.
Special winterization concerns for creative yard features
Now, the part that ties closer to an arts-minded reader. If your yard is more than grass, you probably see it as a project, maybe even as a long, slow art piece. Winterization touches that project in more ways than people always realize.
Protecting outdoor art from winter irrigation issues
Outdoor art lives in a tough place. Water, sun, ice, and soil all work on it at once. If irrigation goes wrong, problems multiply.
Think about three simple relationships:
- Where water lines run
- Where sprinklers or drip emitters spray or drip
- Where art pieces sit or anchor into the ground
If a line cracks under a sculpture base, soil can settle unevenly. Over a season or two, the piece can lean or twist. If a hidden leak develops near metal, you may see rust streaks on concrete or stone. If you winterize well, you cut down that risk a lot.
When you or a pro do the blowout, ask directly:
- Which zones run closest to sculptures or pieces?
- Where are the shallowest lines?
- Which fittings would be hardest to reach if something breaks?
You can even mark these in a simple sketch. It feels a bit technical, but it is part of caring for the work you install outside.
Raised beds and planters as design elements
Many creative yards use raised beds, tiered planters, or built boxes with clean lines. They function as both growing space and structure. Irrigation lines that feed these features often run up walls, behind panels, or through narrow chase spaces.
During winterization, trapped water in vertical runs and tight bends is a risk. Gravity drains do not always clear them. Blowout helps, but only if the zone is designed with it in mind.
A few things to check or plan for:
- Access: Can someone reach the line that feeds each raised piece without removing trim or panels?
- Drain path: Is there a clear way for water to drain back down to a low point when the system shuts off?
- Material protection: If a leak happened inside a wood planter, how fast would you notice?
If you are still designing or building, this is the time to set things up so winterization does not mean partial disassembly every year. I think a lot of people forget this while sketching and then regret it later.
Gravel designs, paths, and mosaics
Patterns in gravel or stone feel very controlled at first. Edges are crisp. Lines are intentional. Then one winter of frost heave and a hidden leak can disturb that order.
Sprinkler lines that cross below these areas need good blowout. If water stays in a pipe and it cracks, the soil will behave differently along that line. Over time, the surface starts to show small waves. Not always visible from far away, but you will notice.
During winterization, take a few minutes to:
- Watch the surface while each zone is blown out.
- Look for any spot where water seems to push up or seep in odd places.
- Flag those locations for later inspection if anything seems off.
This is not a perfect method. It is more of an extra set of eyes. But if you already treat the yard as a sort of artwork, it fits the way you are probably looking at it anyway.
Winter care for the plants that shape the yard
Your yard might include native grasses, perennials, shrubs, perhaps some edibles or small trees. How you winterize irrigation plays into how these plantings survive and how they look in the off season.
Thinking about water needs by zone
A creative yard often uses contrast. Dry-looking areas near more lush patches. Harsh textures next to soft foliage. Winterization should respect those zones instead of flattening them.
Before you shut everything down, ask yourself:
- Which plants absolutely need some late-fall moisture for root health?
- Which areas are meant to stay on the dry side, like a rock garden?
- Do any trees or shrubs near art pieces need one last deep watering by hose after the system is off?
Colorado winters often include dry spells where roots can still dry out even when the top looks frozen. Some people switch from sprinkler to occasional hand watering around key plants, especially if wind exposure is strong near open or sculptural spaces.
Drip systems and artistic plant groupings
Drip irrigation is a favorite tool for more intricate yard designs. You can feed specific plants, keep pathways dry, and hide the lines fairly well. The tradeoff is more tiny parts that can freeze or clog.
For drip zones, winterization steps usually include:
- Shutting off and blowing out the main lines that feed the drip
- Opening end caps so water has an exit point
- Checking filters and pressure regulators so they are not left full of water
If you spent time composing a bed like a painting, with focal plants and support plants, then protecting that drip infrastructure is almost like protecting the frame and hanging wires on a picture. It is not the art itself, but without it the art does not present the way you meant it to.
Working with professionals while staying in control of the design
Many Colorado Springs homeowners choose to hire a sprinkler company for winterization. That is reasonable. Compressors, pressure settings, backflow details… it can feel like more than you want to handle. But giving someone the winterization job does not mean giving up design control.
If you bring in help, consider how you direct them, the same way you might talk to a framer about how to mount a piece.
Questions to ask a sprinkler company
You do not need technical language. Simple questions are fine:
- “Which zones worry you most for freezing on my property?”
- “Are there any shallow lines under my patio, path, or sculpture areas?”
- “If something breaks this winter, what parts of the yard would you need to dig up?”
- “Can you show me where the main shutoff and backflow are so I can keep an eye on them?”
Listen for answers that mention access, depth, and risk near visible features, not just “we will blow it out and it will be fine.” If the response feels too casual, you are not overthinking it by asking again.
What to share with them about your yard
Many techs focus on function, not art. They are not being careless; their training is about water delivery and freeze prevention. You can bring your perspective into the conversation by pointing out:
- Any sculpture bases, walls, or installations that sit near valve boxes or lines
- Custom hardscape like mosaics, hand-laid cobbles, or patterned gravel
- Delicate plant compositions that you do not want trampled or dug up
If you have a rough sketch of your yard layout, show it. Even a simple printout with a few circles and notes helps them see your priorities.
Think of winterization visits as a small collaboration between the person who cares about the art of the yard and the person who cares about the plumbing. Both sides matter, and they do not always see the same risks at first.
Designing future yard projects with winterization in mind
If you are still shaping your outdoor space, you have a chance to build winter care into the design from the start. This is where an arts-minded approach can merge well with practical planning.
Plan access points like hidden “maintenance frames”
Gallery walls often have hidden rails or hardware that keep the look clean but allow easy changes. Your yard can work the same way.
For example:
- Place valve boxes in spots that can be disguised with removable gravel, a movable planter, or a stepping stone, not under a heavy sculpture.
- Keep backflow assemblies near utility areas rather than right behind a main art wall.
- Use edging or pavers that can be lifted and reset if a line underneath ever needs repair.
This kind of thinking takes some effort up front, but it saves you from choosing between your design and simple maintenance later.
Balance buried lines with above-ground features
Every pipe you bury is one more piece that may shift with freeze and thaw. That does not mean you avoid buried irrigation, but you can choose path lines that respect your layout.
Some ideas:
- Keep main trunk lines along straight runs where future digging will not cut through high-detail work.
- Use drip for plant-heavy, detailed areas, with easy access to filters and regulators at the edges.
- Group thirsty plants closer together so zones make sense both visually and for watering schedules.
There is no perfect plan here. You will sometimes compromise: a line under a path, a valve near a feature wall. The goal is not to avoid all conflict, just to avoid the worst ones.
Common mistakes in sprinkler winterization that affect creative yards
A lot of the major failures come from small oversights. When you bring art and careful design into the yard, some of these mistakes become more costly than they would for a plain turf lawn.
Rushing the process in a single cold weekend
People often wait for the forecast that shows a hard freeze, then scramble. That is understandable, but it encourages mistakes like:
- Forgetting a zone
- Skipping drain valves
- Leaving the backflow uninsulated
For a yard you treat like a creative project, think of winterization as a short seasonal routine instead of a one-day crisis. Spread it out over a week. Do the indoor shutoff and drain checks one day, the blowout another, plant checks on a third if you need to.
Ignoring the relationship between irrigation and foundation art
Sometimes, murals or large pieces sit on walls near irrigation lines. A small, slow leak over winter can stain the wall or affect the base of the installation. It is not always dramatic flooding. It can be subtle, like a slight discoloration that creeps up over a year or two.
If you have vertical art near irrigation points, it is worth a careful look at that part of the system during winterization. Double check fittings, look for small damp spots, and ask someone to fix minor issues before freezing weather locks everything in place for months.
Assuming drip systems “take care of themselves”
Drip feels low impact. Quiet, hidden, almost self-effacing. That can trick people into assuming it does not need much winter attention. That is not quite right.
Without proper draining and blowout of the main lines, drip emitters can clog or break. When you turn things back on in spring, water might escape from a split fitting instead of feeding the plant that anchors a composition. That one plant might be key to keeping the bed balanced visually.
Bringing an artistic mindset to a technical chore
Winterization sounds dry. Shut valves, run air, flip switches. But if you think of your yard as a creative space, you already have habits that help here:
- You notice small changes in lines and shapes.
- You care about relationships between pieces, not just each piece by itself.
- You generally prefer a system that works quietly so you can focus on the art or plants.
All of that carries over into how you treat irrigation. Observing, adjusting, refining. Winterization then becomes less of a random mechanic visit and more of a regular part of how you tend the whole space.
Questions people with creative yards often ask about sprinkler winterization
Q: If I plan to redesign part of the yard next year, can I skip full winterization in that area?
A: That is risky. Even if you plan to redo a section, a burst line or damaged backflow over winter can affect parts you do not intend to change. At minimum, shut off and blow out the whole system so you start the new design from a stable, working base.
Q: Does blowing out the sprinklers hurt my plants or the soil structure?
A: When done with normal pressure settings and reasonable care, blowout does not harm roots or soil in any meaningful way. Most of the action happens in pipes, not open soil. If air vents through sprinkler heads, the effect on the surface is brief and shallow.
Q: My yard is mostly native plants and gravel art. Do I still need an irrigation system at all?
A: Some people in Colorado Springs do choose to remove irrigation from truly low-water native yards. But many keep at least a minimal system to help new plants establish and to support them during very dry spells. If you keep any part of the system, you still need to winterize that part. The decision is less “system or no system” and more about how much support you want for the living parts of your design.
Q: Is there a “creative” way to do winterization, or is it always just technical work?
A: The actions are technical, yes. Close, drain, blow out, protect. The creative part is how you arrange the yard around those needs so they do not fight your design. Access points, line routes, plant groupings, art placement. Those choices are where creativity and practicality meet, and where your personal taste really guides the result.